Frequently Asked Questions
Are you able to make custom wood and iron doors?
Yes, we have access to custom build specific sizes, styles and wood species.
How often does a wood door need to be refinished?
It all depends on the door’s exposure to the elements and the type of wood. A stained wood door should be treated like a piece of furniture. If your door is being exposed to direct sunlight or precipitation, the finish should be checked periodically for signs of fading and refinished accordingly. If your door is receiving a large amount of direct sun and/or precipitation, you may have to refinish as often as 1-2 times a year. If your door gets little to no sun or rain, the finish should last years. We do recommend wiping down your wood door with a furniture polish at least once a month to help preserve the finish.
What is a pre-hung door?
A pre-hung door is a door which is provided with a jamb. Jambs for interior doors typically come with the frame and hinges. Jambs for exterior doors typically include the frame, hinges, weather-stripping, a threshold, and exterior trim.
What is an unfinished slab door?
An unfinished slab door is a door that has not been stained or sealed and has not been cut at all. In order for slab door to be installed, it must be cut to the correct width and height, have the area for the hinges mortised out, and have the hole(s) cut for hardware. The door is then considered to be machined or “bored and mortised”.
What does bore mean?
The bore of a door refers to the lock preparation and machining of the door (the holes that are cut for the hardware). The industry standard for a residential exterior door is two holes, 5-1/2″ center to center, 2-3/8″ backset, with a 2-1/8″ diameter. Commercial doors typically have a 2-3/4″ backset. Doors can also be bored for a mortise lock. This type of lock prep varies between different hardware manufacturers and models. We must have the mortise lock in our possession to machine a door for a mortise lock and there is an extra charge.
What is jamb thickness?
Jamb thickness is the depth of the jamb, which is determined by the thickness of the wall. The exterior and interior trim is not included when calculating the jamb thickness. For example, a wall that is framed using standard 2×4’s with 1/2″ sheetrock and 1/2″ exterior sheathing has a depth of 4-1/2″ and will typically require a 4-5/8″ jamb thickness. The extra 1/8″ allows for easier mounting of the trim.
What does a jamb come with?
An exterior wood door jamb purchased from DSA Doors comes with the wood jamb legs and header, hinges, kerf weather-stripping, a bronze adjustable sill threshold (for inswing doors) or a bronze bumper type (for outswing doors), and a 180 profile brickmould or 1×4 exterior trim. An ADA compliant threshold is available upon request. Interior trim is sold separately.
If I need to cut down my door, how much can I take off (top, bottom and sides)?
We build our doors to order and suggest ordering a door at the exact size that’s needed. If time is of the essence and you must alter a door in local inventory, you can cut a maximum of ½” from the top and 1½” from the bottom or 1″ on doors. Any more and you run the risk of impacting the structural integrity of the door. We do not suggest trimming the door in width other than for a bevel or minor prep work.
Where can I get advice on what type of stain or paint to use when finishing my door?
Every location is different (different weather, different exposure for a particular door) and every door is different (design, wood species, potential upgrades), it always makes sense to check with a local finishing expert and download DSA’s Door Care Recommendations
Where can I go to see a particular glass (texture or decorative) in-person?
DSA Doors offers multiple different standard glass options with the ability to make any custom glass design a homeowner can dream of. And while it’s difficult for a retailer to have all options on display, many DSA Authorized Dealers carry full-size doors and a variety of smaller glass samples to represent many of the options. You can also reach out to your local DSA Dealer to request some glass samples. In addition, check out our Glass Options
Can I rush order a door?
If the desired door is a standard door style with no alterations we generally can rush the order. Please speak with your DSA Dealer on specifics.
What species is the most durable/weather resistant?
Wood in general is a great insulator and can withstand just about anything Mother Nature sends it’s way as long as it is protected. Protection in the form of a great finish and a building overhang. For tough exposures, DSA Doors now offers a new collection of Accoya Wood Doors that can withstand more than your typical door.
How do I get pricing?
You can get pricing from any DSA Door Authorized Dealer. Simply contact a dealer with your design, size and other specifications directly.
How are DSA doors made?
DSA doors are all wood. They are typically built in an engineered fashion, meaning each door component is made of multiple pieces of wood and then covered by veneer, resulting in a sturdier, straighter door.
Are DSA doors ENERGY STAR rated?
Not at this time. However, many DSA doors carry U-Factor and solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) ratings to meet or exceed many project or municipality requirements. For a full list of these ratings for each door, view our U-Factor Ratings chart.
I’m having trouble getting answers/pricing information from my dealer, what do I do?
All DSA Authorized Dealers have access to pricing information and tools to effectively quote DSA doors. If you are unhappy with the service you are receiving from a particular dealer, please consider another dealer that services your area. To find a dealer near you, visit FIND YOUR DEALER
on our website.
How thick are the veneers on DSA doors?
Most door veneers are 1/16″ thick, much thicker than many inferior, imported doors on the market. This thickness allows for multiple refinishes over the life of the door. All DSA doors are available with 1/4″ and 1/8″ thick veneers as an upgrade. If you have special needs that require components made from solid wood, that can be also done for an additional charge.
What is the difference between SDL and TDL?
Both acronyms (SDL=Simulated Divided Lite, TDL=True Divided Lite) refer to the construction method used for a door that has the look of multiple panes of glass separated by bars. In TDL construction, the door includes multiple glass units held in place and separated by bars. In SDL construction, the door includes a single glass unit and bars are affixed to the face of the glass. Both construction types result in a door that looks nearly identical, and each technique has its own advantages. Consult your dealer to see which method makes the most sense for your specific door.
How do I find out if you offer an interior version of a specific exterior door?
We can make doors in any design, size and wood species. Therefore we can make any interior door to match an exterior door. And truly, any exterior door can be used in an interior application.
What is the warranty on a DSA door?
Can I get my door pre-hung?
Yes. Your DSA Door Authorized Dealer can arrange pre-hanging of your door.
Where do I find hardware?
DSA Doors does supply hardware for its doors. However, additional hardware can be obtained from a DSA Door Authorized Dealer. Or you can purchase your own hardware.
Where can I find what sizes a specific door is available in?
DSA can build any door in any size. Simply indicate the specific size needed when placing your order.
What does “VG” stand for in VG flat panel?
What are SG and IG?
These acronyms describe glass in a door. IG (insulated glazing, also known as double-paned glass) describes a glass unit made up of more than one piece of glass around a central airspace. This method of construction has proven to provide superior energy efficient characteristics vs. a single piece of glass. SG (single-glazed, also known as single-paned glass) indicates a single piece of glass for that unit, a common request for interior doors.
How to remove excess putty (glazing compound)?
Exterior wood doors that have glass also have glazing compound. Glazing compound waterproofs the glass to the wood parts. Properly done, we expect to see some excess glazing compound squeeze out around these edges. Glazing compound needs to be removed before finishing the door. If your door is finished by DSA, we’ll take care of this for you. If your finisher hasn’t removed the excess glazing compound, you may want to contact them for help.
If removing the putty by yourself, we warn against the use of a razor knife and a razor scraper. The proper tool to use is an awl. An awl is round, it’s safe to the door. It also creates a good transition for the glazing compound. And to remove this all you need to do is press the awl firmly in against the glass itself and run right around the edge of the glazing bead or the sticking. It can be frustrating trying to use any other tool because it’ll take a long time, you’ll likely damage the door – you might even hurt yourself.
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